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Gin sin: How ‘Drinkflation’ took the kick out of your weekend martini

Drinks writer Nick Morgan finds himself both shaken and stirred after discovering the bond of trust between brand and consumer has been silently broken — and reveals what it means for that crucial martini punch

Saturday 21 October 2023 09:34 BST
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The strength of your gin is critical to the delivery of your martini – strength delivers viscosity, texture and the visceral kick of that first ice-cold sip
The strength of your gin is critical to the delivery of your martini – strength delivers viscosity, texture and the visceral kick of that first ice-cold sip (Getty)

Some months ago, I wrote a piece about the “Hall of Shame” occupied by spirits brands who, over the years, have changed formulations of recipes by adjusting either ingredients and/or alcoholic strength. It’s a sorry list, including names as familiar (and popular) as Gordon’s Gin, Jack Daniels, Maker’s Mark, Pimm’s, Sailor Jerry, and Southern Comfort.

In many cases, these changes went unannounced in the hope (often realised) that brand-loyal consumers simply wouldn’t notice the difference. I ended with these words of warning: “You can be sure that as you read this someone, somewhere, is trying to f*** with one of your favourite spirit brands. Likely as not they’ll try and do it without telling you this time.”

Little did I know that the next brand in the frame would be the UK version of Tanqueray London Dry Gin – quite possibly one of the best gins in the world. And my favourite. And no one told me.

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