24-Hour Room Service

Taj Mahal, Mumbai

The Taj Mahal celebrates its centenary this December. Not the miraculous shrine to love at Agra, but a colonial vision of red brick colonnades, domed buttresses and ivory-coloured towers that decorates Mumbai's harbour. Since it opened in 1903, it has become the place to stay for visitors such as Queen Elizabeth II\, the Aga Khan, Duke Ellington, the Maharaja of Bikaner, the Beatles and, recently, Cate Blanchett.

It was built by local Parsi industrialist Jamshetji Tata (the story goes that he vowed to build a hotel that would be open to all after he was refused entry to what was then the best hotel in town). Legend tells how the Taj was built back to front. Although it seems to make sense to have the entrance and rooms facing the sea, the original plans had the entrance on the opposite side of the building. When the perfectionist French architect returned from a trip home and realised the mistake, he shot himself.

It's still the best hotel in town, but the re-designs it has undergone have left it feeling a bit disjointed. The original entrance has been substituted by a grand marble lobby, characterful old rooms such as the Moorish-style dining hall and leafy lounge have been replaced by modern corporate and function rooms. And except for the Harbour Bar, the bars and restaurants seem to be constantly changing. Hopefully the current revamp won't strip away any more character.

Location, location, location

Right on the harbour, next to the Gateway of India, the hotel is within walking distance of the bargain shops of Colaba, the Prince of Wales museum and docks for boat trips to Elephanta Island. Most of the city's other sights are only a 30p taxi ride away. Taj Mahal, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai (00 91 22 5665 3366, www.tajhotels.com).

Time from international airport: the 20-mile journey from Chhatrapati Shivaji airport takes at least an hour by taxi (around £4).

Are you lying comfortably?

Definitely. The best thing about the hotel is its dedication to service. You can hardly get out of bed before someone's there to make it up again. Although upgrading to modern standards has meant the style of the rooms (each one is slightly different) has led to an unlikely mix of corporate conformity and Dallas pizzazz, all are very practical, with large beds, desks and marble bathrooms.

If you want opulence, some of the heritage suites are on a grand scale, with corner dining rooms, balconies overlooking the Gateway of India and huge vaulted ceilings. For a sense of what the hotel was originally like, see the antique-filled and glass-roofed corridors or down the spiral staircase of the Heritage wing.

Freebies: own-brand toiletries and a copy of the Times of India. Club guests also get a bottle of wine and fresh fruit.

Keeping in touch: rooms have phone and modem lines and satellite TVs and, if you ask, you can borrow a CD player.

The bottom line

Standard doubles start at £190 in the Tower wing or £220 in the Heritage wing. Club rooms start at £280 and suites from £310.

I'm not paying that: At nearby Bentley's Hotel (17 Oliver Road, 00 91 22 284 1474) faded but characterful old rooms start at around £10.