HOTEL OF THE WEEK

Stapleford Park

Where is it?

Deep in pork-pie country. Address: , Near Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE14 2EF (tel: 01572 787522; fax: 01572 787651).

What's it like?

One of England's poshest stately homes, going back to 1500. Set in 500 acres of Capability Brown parkland, with lakes, woods and its own church. Wellies and riding hats sit inside the front door and friendly staff are dressed in tweeds and brogues. Log fires and plush sofas everywhere. Complimentary carafe of sloe gin in your room.

Ambience?

Sumptuous and unhurried.

Service?

Faultless and friendly, and it didn't matter when the general manager, showing off the new golf course in his 4WD, got us stuck in mud - they were terribly decent about dirty shoes in the drawing-room.

Rooms?

Fifty-one, each with its own character. Designers such as David Hicks and Nina Campbell have had free rein, as have Wedgwood, Turnbull & Asser, Crabtree & Evelyn, Liberty, even Pirelli and J&B Whisky. The reservations manager matches people to room by the sound of their voice on the phone. State Rooms are pounds 250-pounds 495 per night, including breakfast, Manor Rooms pounds 200, and House Rooms pounds 165.

Food?

Wonderful. Canapes in the drawing-room, then classy country cuisine in the Grinling Gibbons-style dining-room. Fruit, vegetables and herbs from the garden. The pecan-crusted loin of lamb with artichokes, pears and buttery cinnamon juices was, erm, superb. Dinner only is pounds 39.50.

Awards?

Inclusion in Egon Ronay; RAC's four stars and blue ribbon award; AA's four stars and two rosettes for food; Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report - Best Country Hotel in the World 1993; and Preferred Hotel 2000 - one of only 21 in Europe. Oh yes, Loo of the Year 1994, 1995, 1996, and The Rosie Russell Five Gold Bone Award for outstanding canine hospitality.

Clientele

Reclusive couples without children but increasingly "exclusive" usage, that is, companies taking over the place as a staff treat or for a conference. The day after our visit McDonald's was arriving but hamburgers were not on the menu.

Things to do

Spa with pool, sauna, steam room, solarium, Jacuzzi, gym, treatment rooms for facials, detoxifying body makeover, aromatherapy, body massage, then horse-riding, falconry, archery, shooting, croquet, fishing, tennis, golf, walking - or nothing. Tickets still left for the three-day millennium party at pounds 2,500 each, and when it's all over, a detox pick-me-up.