Newport Beach: Leave LA behind and flee to the real OC

This well-to-do Californian coastal town offers a blissful escape from the big city, from whale watching to ‘docking and dining’

Soak up the sunset at Newport Beach pier (Shutterstock)

For my generation – let’s call it “old millennial” – Newport Beach will forever be synonymous with The OC, the US teen drama series that ran from 2003 to 2007. It followed a group of wealthy families living in the coastal city in Orange County – the titular OC (though locals were quick to tell me that no one actually calls their patch of southern California by that moniker).

For those not familiar with the show, there was a lot of spoilt-rich-kid teenage angst at the beach at sunset, or around private swimming pools at their hilltop mansions with Pacific panoramas, while their parents conducted affairs – both business and pleasure – at the yacht, country or golf club (or all three). So it’s fair to say that on my visit I was anticipating a certain level of gloss and glamour. And it is there, in the form of designer shops, the upscale chain hotels you would expect, lots of shiny yachts and gin palaces and yes, a few exclusive members’ clubs with palm tree-lined terraces.

Yet the compact city also has a laid-back, casual feel, with a small-town, seaside vibe making it a refreshing stop-off on a Californian trip, away from hectic LA and its suburbs. For old-world charm, the go-to area is Balboa Island and Balboa Village, over on the Balboa Peninsula. The two are connected by a three-minute ferry that has been running since 1919, still operated by the same family.

The ferry to Balboa Island has been running for almost a century (Gabriel Buoys/AFP/Getty Images)

On Balboa Island you get blocks of cheery single-story shops, selling beach gear, souvenirs and artisanal food including the sweet treats Newport Beach is known for: frozen bananas and Balboa Bars. The former, a banana dipped in chocolate and nuts, has entered many non-Newportonians’ consciousness thanks to the Bluth family’s frozen banana stand in the Newport Beach-set sitcom Arrested Development. The latter is a block of vanilla ice-cream dunked in chocolate with a choice of toppings (purists go for peanuts). There is some debate in town as to which establishment came up with the Balboa Bar first, Dad’s and Sugar ’N’ Spice, but I would suggest it doesn’t really matter – just do as I did and try both.

Back on the Peninsula is the Fun Zone. For any families that can’t face the 40-minute drive to Disneyland, this is a good old-fashioned funfair complete with a ferris wheel – on which, The OC fans, Ryan and Marissa shared their first kiss – as well as other rides and arcades.

The Balboa Peninsula boardwalk (Visit California)

The Balboa Peninsula is also where you’ll find a long stretch of beach, dotted with surf schools where you can learn from the best – or just watch them at play. For some more serious action, head to the extreme east end of the peninsula and catch boarders and body surfers at The Wedge, so-called because of the huge, wedge-shaped waves the man-made rock jetty can create.

The Pacific has some incredible wildlife in its midst and both whale watching and deep-sea fishing tours depart from Balboa Village. If it’s whales you want, passionate guides will give you the need-to-know on marine life, and you can expect to spot dolphins and sea lions too.

I set sail on a slightly different voyage. My vessel? A skippered Duffy boat. These little electric cruisers (decked out with scalloped awnings and scatter cushions), are ideal for those who want to “dock and dine”. This is where you glide up to one of the bay’s many restaurants and park your boat while you eat. I drifted over to The Cannery, on the site of a former fish cannery, which served some of the freshest seafood I’ve ever tasted (don’t miss the pasta carbonara with lobster).

Duffy boats have been plying the waters of Newport Beach since the 1970s (David Serino/Visit California) (David Serino / Visit California)

If you’d rather work your core muscles than your tastebuds, there’s also stand-up paddle boarding (a sport lately made famous by Orlando Bloom’s naked escapades), which is ideal if you want a better look at some of the swanky waterfront properties, not least John Wayne’s former bayside home (he’s buried in Newport Beach cemetery, the airport takes his name and you can even charter his 136-foot yacht, The Wild Goose). You’ll also pass the Balboa Bay Club, which counts Humphrey Bogart and Greta Garbo among its former star members.

With a little time to spare, I moved on from Newport Beach to the nearby wine country at Temecula, an hour’s drive away. It doesn’t have the profile of northern Cali’s Sonoma or Napa Valley, but it’s a picturesque contrast to the coast and an area that’s garnering attention in the wine world. Flanked by mountains, Temecula Valley has a Mediterranean climate that is brilliant for grape-growing but can get seriously hot during the summer – during my visit in June, temperatures topped 40C.

Thankfully, the more than 40 vineyards have very effective air conditioning (I quickly discovered why people who had been to California in summer advised me to take a jacket). Some establishments focus on classic grapes like chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon, while others trade in lesser-known varieties. Set-ups range from rowdy bachelor and bachelorette hotspots to more serene surroundings, so it pays to do your research.

The Carter Estate vineyard

The Carter Estate Winery’s booze and food pairing sessions with in-house expert Lou were a revelation; let’s just say if I just had to drink their 2012 cabernet sauvignon with the recommended salami and Manchego for the rest of my life, I’d be pretty happy.

The Carter Estate hosts wine tastings

Combine a vineyard visit with a stop at Temecula Old Town, established in 1882 when the Californian railroad went through the area. Some of the late 19th and early 20th-century buildings still stand and there are plenty of independent shops and more locally-made produce to try, including olive oil. If someone had told me at the start of the day that I’d be happily necking 10 (very small) shots of oil and balsamic vinegars – it is better tasted without bread, apparently – I’d have laughed. But as I discovered first at Newport Beach then here in the Temecula Valley, this part of southern California has much more to offer than lunch at the yacht club.

Travel essentials

Getting there

Sally Newall flew with Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com), which operates a four-times weekly service to Los Angeles from Heathrow, Manchester, Glasgow and Birmingham via Dublin, where you pre-clear US immigration and customs. Passengers are then treated as domestic passengers on arrival in the US. From £279 one way.

Staying there

Newport Beach Marriott Hotel & Spa (00 1 949-640-4000; marriott.com). Doubles from £173, room only.

Carter Estate Winery and Resort, Temecula (00 1 844 851 2138; carterestatewinery.com). Doubles from £122, room only.

More information

visitnewportbeach.com; visittemeculavalley.com