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Fingal review: What it’s like to stay in a floating luxury hotel in Edinburgh

This modern-day Titanic hits all the right notes

Olivia Petter
Thursday 19 December 2019 19:37 GMT
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Anchors away at the Fingal
Anchors away at the Fingal

In a nutshell: luxurious converted ship docked in a vibrant and artisanal part of Edinburgh.

The neighbourhood

Stroll towards the outskirts of Leith, past the car dealerships and port-side tapas bars, and you might just find yourself gawping at an oddly placed piece of luxury. The Fingal is a modern-day Titanic, only it’s docked two miles away from Edinburgh’s bustling city centre – and hopefully won’t be sinking any time soon.

Fingal's Lighthouse Bar

The look

Following a £5m conversion, what was once a lighthouse-supplies ferry in the 1960s has become a palatial floating hotel complete with Art Deco interiors, glistening copper ceilings and a sweeping Great Gatsby-worthy ballroom. Everything about this hotel screams swank, from its gold-mirrored lift and smooth wooden walls to the copious flower arrangements and rose-gold cocktail shakers. No corner has been spared from the splendour.

The vibe

The staff are attentive and eager to accommodate, although this might have something to do with the shortage of guests come 7pm. The Fingal does not feel like a busy hotel, at least not at night. Presumably this is because people are making the most of their time in Edinburgh – a city packed with buzzing bars and night cap spots – and not because of the hotel’s lack of evening atmosphere. Walking the empty halls of The Fingal can feel somewhat spooky, so you’re better off following the crowd and exploring the city’s night-time offerings before stumbling back to the ship a little later when you’re too tired to notice any looming spectres.

Bed and bath

Bedding might just be what this hotel does best. Sourced from the same manufacturers that provide beds for the royal family, the Fingal’s mattresses are cloud-like enough to mollycoddle even the most belligerent of insomniacs into a deep slumber. The beds in the classic cabins are slightly smaller than in the more expensive rooms but still king-size, leaving little to no room for much else. If bathing is your thing, you’ll need to upgrade to one of the duplex cabins that are set on two floors – classic cabins come with a rain shower only. Each room is fitted with a smart TV, underfloor heating and air conditioning, and some have access to the deck. (Given that this is a ship, the windows are portholes, so the rooms can get a little dark at times.)

Beds are cloud-like at the Fingal

Food and drink

Breakfast-wise, the Fingal’s offering is delicious, although perhaps limited for those seeking something lighter or meat-free. Highlights include the full Scottish breakfast: baked beans, sausages, mushrooms, haggis, eggs, black pudding etc. There’s also plenty of bacon. For the vegetarians, it’s eggs cooked any style, pancakes and some rather starchy potato-based sausages. Unsurprisingly for a Scottish establishment, the smoked salmon is of the highest grade.

Dinners are decadent, three-course affairs

Lunch is a bit of a non-event, so much so that you’re already on to afternoon tea menus by 2.30pm, leaving late diners with no choice but scones and finger sandwiches. Dinner, on the other hand, is a decadent three-course treat. Oysters, vegetable soup and innovative vegan dishes (such as dairy-free mushroom risotto) make up the starters while steak, fish fillets and risotto comprise the substantial mains. Dessert is a must, too – the chocolate fondant quite literally melts in the mouth.

Public areas

Aside from the dining area, there isn’t much on offer in terms of public areas. There’s a large decking area that must come into its own during the warm summer months and a sprawling ballroom that can be hired out for private events.

Nuts and bolts

Room count: 23 cabins, including one presidential suite

Freebies: Tea cakes, shortbread, Nespresso coffee, range of teas, milk and water

In the bathroom: Noble Isle amenities

Wifi: Complimentary

Extra charges: n/a

Minibar prices: From £1 to £6

Disability access: Fully accessible

Pet policy: No pets allowed

Bottom line

Best thing: The unique ship setting

Worst thing: The location – there’s not a huge amount to do within walking distance.

Perfect for: An offbeat weekend in Edinburgh

Not right for: A week-long trip

Instagram from: The hotel exterior, so you can see the ship in all its glory.

Room rate: Double rooms from £200 a night

fingal.co.uk

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