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Royal Ascot: The ultimate guide to dressing for the racing event, from silhouettes to hats

‘The rules are really simple but strict’

Katie O'Malley
Wednesday 19 June 2019 14:43 BST
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Whether you’re choosing an outfit for a summer wedding or a cocktail party, knowing how to adhere to a specific dress code can have even the most sartorially-savvy dresser stripping their wardrobes bare.

Add to that the pressure of members of royalty, celebrities, and paparazzi in your midst and the expectations to impress heighten.

From Tuesday 18 – Saturday 22 June, Royal Ascot returns to the Berkshire racecourse for a week of horse racing, socialising, fine dining and an opportunity to display fashion prowess.

Since its launch in 1711, the event has long been regarded as one of the most important fashion events in the UK calendar, where guests are invited to keep to a strict dress code depending on which enclosure they're granted access to: Royal, Queen Anne, Village, and Windsor.

Alex Longmore, celebrity stylist and royal dress expert, says elegance should be the priority when creating a look for Royal Ascot.

“It’s not about being on trend, wearing something fashionable or wanting to stand out from the crowd – it’s about looking chic, put together and seriously smart,” she tells The Independent.

We spoke to stylists, designers, and milliners in the fashion industry to find out their advice when it comes to dressing for the occasion.

From fabrics and pattern clashes to millinery advice and shoe styles, here’s everything you need to know.

Skirt and dress length

For those in the Royal enclosure, it is compulsory for women to wear dresses of “modest length” which is defined as falling just above the knee or longer. Dresses and tops should have straps of one inch or greater, while strapless, off the shoulder, halter neck and spaghetti straps are strictly banned.

“The rules are really simple but strict,” explains Longmore. The stylist points out that while midriffs and sheer clothing are forbidden, women are permitted to wear trouser suits so long as they are “full-length to the ankle and of match in both material and colour”.

Meanwhile, womenswear designer Hayley Menzies says it’s important to be inventive when it comes to maintaining a high standard of traditional clothing and experimenting with high-octane couture.

“Below the knee now also includes beautiful maxi dresses, which are effortless and refined, with much more scope for incredible designs and prints and colour,” says Menzies. “Languid elongated silhouettes have come around again as the way to stand out in the crowd, so 'modest length' is an easy rule to adhere to.”

Tradition may dictate that women wear dresses and skirts to the event but guests are permitted to wear trousersuits in all enclosures for the occasion. According to the dress code, women's suits must fall below the knee in keeping with regulations for dresses.

Despite the welcoming of the style, Longmore warns that only the fashion brave should experiment with this look.

“If you are not a confident fashionista then stay away from trousers or a jumpsuit,” she says.

“You will feel in the minority and we all, especially the British, want to feel that we fit in and look the part."

Longmore also states that those not in favour of dresses and skirts can opt to wear a frock coat as an alternative.

Whilst there is no official dress code for the Windsor Enclosure, guests are encouraged to dress in smart daywear, which can include a hat or fascinator for women and a jacket, collared shirt and full-length trousers for men.

Serving military personnel and overseas visitors are also welcome to wear their Service Dress or formal Nation Dress of their country, respectively.

Hats

When it comes to headwear, a hat is a compulsory accessory for guests attending the racing event.

“Hats and fine millinery have always been synonymous with Royal Ascot, as headwear was an obligation for all formal occasions – Royal Ascot was no different,” explains British milliner Jane Taylor. “As hats have become worn less, the dress code has ensured that the history of hat wearing has been maintained.”

A racegoer poses for a photograph as she arrives on day one of the Royal Ascot horse racing meet, in Ascot, west of London, on June 18, 2019.

That said, for those opposed to covering their head entirely and attending the Royal Enclosure, a headpiece with a solid base of at least 4 inches (10cm) in diameter is acceptable as an alternative to a hat, while fascinators are a strict no-no.

When it comes to styling the hat, Taylor suggests choosing a colour that flatters your skin tone as well as choosing a hat that complements the silhouette of your outfit.

“For example, if you have flare skirt with a narrow waist, a wider brimmed hat will balance the skirt perfectly and show off your waist,” explains the milliner.

For those who like a larger-brimmed hat, Longmore says it is essential to try on the hat with your outfit before buying.

“If you are not used to wearing a brimmed hat, wear it at home to get used to the feel before attending the event,” she suggests. “Make sure you plan how you are going to wear your hair with the hat.”

Accessories

Whether it’s a gingham jacket over a checked dress or a pair of pink corduroy trousers paired with a bright red oversized blazer, it’s becoming increasingly popular to favour the “matchy-mismatchy trend” – purposely putting together clothing which have a similar tone or print.

Fortunately, when it comes to dressing for Royal Ascot, you don’t have to match your entire outfit like women may have done back in the 1980s.

Longmore suggests choosing a hat colour that matches the dress but not necessarily your shoes and bag. “If you go to “matchy-matchy”, it will just look all a bit OTT. Less is so much more when it comes to Ascot dressing," she says.

A general view on day one of Royal Ascot at Ascot Racecourse on June 18, 2019 in Ascot, England

If you do choose to match elements of your outfit, Menzie suggests making a twist on the maximalism trend with caution.

“If you are matching a very vibrant dress I would go simple with hat, shoes and bag, otherwise you risk giving your entourage a headache,” she says.

“If you are wearing monochrome, you have an incredible licence to make your accessories pop. Try to create a theme between hat, shoes and bag so it makes sense.”

Silhouette and colour

With recent British climes throwing everything from downpours to sunshine in recent weeks, it’s often hard to know how to dress for a day at the office, let alone a celebrity-filled outdoor extravaganza. For example, a dress too floaty may cause havoc in the wind, while a figure-skimming silhouette may result in extreme perspiration.

To avoid a major fashion faux pas, Longmore advises opting for a silhouette that is flattering, not figure-hugging, and fits perfectly.

When it comes to colour, the stylist suggests avoiding patterns or prints. “It just doesn’t look as elegant as a block colour,” she says. “Getting a hat to match a print is infinitely more difficult, than choosing a plane colour. You want to make it as simple as possible and with so much to accessorise its better to keep to a safe option and style.”

Instead, Longmore advises an outfit in a pastel colour, or a light base colour such as white or cream.

“[White] is the colour of the season and its really quite easy to accessorise with and if you are choosing a hat of the peg rather than having one made bespoke,” she says.

Taylor concurs, adding that an outfit with a “busy pattern” (think stripes or polka dots) or that is incredibly detailed needs a simple-designed hat.

“However, if your outfit is plain and simple then it’s a great opportunity to add some elegant trimming, such as flowers, feathers or veiling,” the milliner says.

As for fabric choices, Longmore advises favouring breathable fabrics such as silks and wool. “Ascot can be hot and you want to make sure even with your arms covered you are not sweltering,” she adds.

If there is a chill in the air, Menzies says Ascot serves as the perfect opportunity for guests to try out wearing on-trend, fluid silhouettes.

“It’s a good idea to experiment with your cover up, veering away from structured and nipped jackets and opting for elegant dusters and jacquard cardigans as a striking alternative,” advises the designer.

Shoes

Choosing a suitable pair of sturdy footwear that will endure the tumultuous British weather and uneven ground is a near impossible task for race goers aiming to prioritise comfort and fashion.

“When it comes to shoes for Royal Ascot comfort is paramount, it’s the key to feeling confident, elegant and happy,” says Emmy Scarterfield, shoe designer of London-based footwear brand Emmy London.

“We’ve all been there – having painful feet at any occasion is not fun at all.”

As a result, Scarterfield advises guests to choose a style that provides plenty of arch support and a heel shape that copes well on grass turfs. “Steer away from super high, strappy styles that may start to dig in as the day goes on and that are likely to get stuck in the grass with all the standing and walking involved,” she notes.

The designer, who previously assisted fashion designer Stuart Vevers to create an accessory line for the luxury fashion house Bottega Veneta, also suggested option a closed-toe design with a block heel “which is both practical and on-trend”.

Top tips

With over sixteen years’ experience in the British fashion industry, Longmore knows all too well the pitfalls you can fall into when it comes to formal attire for events such as Ascot. Fortunately, the stylist has picked up a few tricks of the trade to cope with everything, from blisters to bloating.

Compeed plasters and SPANX underwear are two of the stylist’s most cherished handbag essentials for race days, as is having a second outfit choice, depending on the weather.

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“We all know the English weather and how it continuously changes, it might be worth having a backup in place just so you have some choice on the day,” she advises. “You can always return to the store or online what you don’t keep.”

As for how to greet fellow guests on the day while wearing a large hat, Scarterfield’s top tip is to tilt it on one side. “That way you can at least greet your friends with a kiss on one cheek!,” she notes.

Keep up-to-date with all Royal Ascot 2019 news here.

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